Travelling Michoacan - December 2003

by Carmen and Lee Kraft

Today’s famous tourism destinations in Mexico and in the world were discovered long ago by adventurous travelers who looked for unspoiled and unusual places, way before they had anything resembling a tourist infrastructure. The most beautiful places gained their fame thanks to those travelers, and became tourist destinations that today boast large hotels and first class installations fit for the most comfortable vacations. Fortunately, the spirit of discovery and first hand “conquest” still persists in many people. In this country in particular, there is a great range of options for the true traveler. In this issue of “Another Day in Paradise”, permit us to present you with an excellent opportunity to discover the real charm of Mexico. This trip – by automobile – starts in Mexico City, Guadalajara or Morelia and takes 4 days. It implies a 2-day (night) stay in Morelia and another night in Patzcuaro. And then, once you arrive in Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo, many more days in Paradise.

If you are driving from Mexico-City or Guadalajara, take the free-way that takes you directly to Morelia; just check out a road map of Mexico. If you do not have one, the Department of the Secretary of Communication and Transportation provides excellent information on its website at www.sct.gob.mx

For accommodations in Morelia, we recommend the “Villa Montaña”, a beautiful hotel whose owner, Philippe de Reiset was one of the visionaries who was instrumental in the creation of the Quality Club TESOROS (= Treasures), a group of hotels and restaurants in the State of Michoacán that are concerned not only about the quality of their own services and installations but also care about customs, arts and handicrafts, food and regional traditions. The “Villa Montaña” is located in the upper parts of “Santa María”, 15 minutes from the historical center of town and with a magnificent view of Morelia. Antiques and crafts of unique beauty combine perfectly with the colonial architecture of rose-colored sandstone and its carefully preserved monuments.

If you would prefer to stay near the bustling center of Morelia, half a block from the main Plaza de Armas and Morelia’s impressive cathedral is Hotel de la Soledad. A restored colonial vine draped hotel with sunny patios and courtyards that has been providing shelter to Morelia’s visitors for over 200 years.

Other contacts for maps and suggestions for day trips, in addition to hotel and restaurant listings in the entire state of Michoacán.

TESOROS – Nur Villanueva Yafar, tesorosmichoacan@yahoo.com.mx; www.cdctesoros.com; Tel: (443) 314-0179 and 324-8168; Fax (443) 315-1423, and of course, the Secretary of State Tourism: Tel. 01-800-450-2300; Fax (443) 312-9816 turgaleria@michoacan.gob.mx.

One practical tip for the traveler: leave room in your trunk or the luggage rack on the roof of your car for your handicraft purchases. The ancient villages of the region all around Lake Pátzcuaro are home not only to some inspired artisans but also to renowned artists who are among the best in Mexico and the world. Along the old highway from Morelia to Guadalajara, only half an hour from the Michoacán capital, lies Capula, a village with narrow streets and a tranquil lifestyle where its residents make their living with the production of pottery. But what has put this peculiar little village in the spotlight is the presence of the maestro Juan Torres, who for the past few years has been building his legacy next to the cemetery, turning a hill into yet another work of art. After passing through an enormous wooden entrance door, his entire architectonical work unfolds in front of you, housing – among other things – his wife’s workshop where the famous “catrinas” are sculpted from clay and painted with the smallest possible details. Uphill is a chapel with fascinating paintings and some sculptures. And to the right there is his house, which he has built respecting the landscape and the shape of the building lot. It is a house full of labyrinths that lead to hidden corners full of treasures. Next to it and connected by a bridge, is his painting studio, and behind its wide windows you can see the gardens, the village and its extensive mountains. His paintings include women’s faces with startled expressions, dead nature and samples of our customs.

The old highway between Morelia and Guadalajara continues on to Quiroga, passing through the village of El Tigre with its exuberant vegetation and fame for stone carvings. A great part of the regional handicrafts is concentrated in Quiroga which owes its name to Don Vasco de Quiroga, Michoacán’s first bishop. Along the main avenue and towards the town centre there is an abundance of works in wood, textiles, pottery and vegetable fibers. It is a good idea to bring comfortable shoes so that you can walk and enjoy exploring everything there is to discover.

Twenty minutes away, on the shores of Lake Pátzcuaro lies Tzintzuntzan, or “Place of Hummingbirds”, the ancient capital of the Tarasco empire.

If you like walking we suggest that you visit the “yácatas”, an archeological zone that reflects Mexico’s heritage. But if you prefer to keep discovering handicrafts, we recommend that you visit the crafts market where you will find an endless array of works made out of vegetable fibers as well as textiles, pieces made out of clay, and rustic furniture. Don Quijote de la Mancha sure seems to be a famous character in this region because you can find wood sculptures of him in all possible sizes.

In case you feel hungry at this point of your trip, the specialty of this region is “churipo de pescado”, a cornmeal tamal filled with tiny fried fish from the Patzcuaro lake.

On the same road lies the small village of Ihuatzio where Mario López Torres and his wife are putting their special stamp on crafts, fitting iron structures into furniture or animals made out of a reed grass that grows on the shores of the lake and that the local artisans use for a number of different things. Their creations which are showcased in the workshop and gallery “Tzumindi” are already world famous. However, to actually find their house and workshop you need to do some serious detective work, asking the locals for directions. If you are looking for an original gift or decorative item for your home, this is the place you will most definitely find it.

After Ihuatzio we recommend you return to Morelia to visit the historic center and to enjoy a delicious dinner in one of the restaurants of the Quality Club.

On your way to the coast you pass through Pátzcuaro, “Place where they dye in black”, only 30 minutes from Morelia. The region was an important ceremonial center for the Tarsaco and Purepecha indians during prehispanic times and Pátzcuaro is one of the most beautiful typical villages of the State and maybe all of Mexico. Its adobe constructions, temples and plazas make it an excellent destination for travelers. Among the places to be visited are the Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, the museum of popular arts, the Sagrario, the Basilica, the Sanctuary, the public library, the “Casa de los Once Patios” (House of the Eleven Patios), and many other hidden corners that are worth visiting. Its outstanding handicrafts feature lacquered works, figurines made out of corn husk and woven fabrics although there are also works in copper and wooden furniture. Each visitor may discover for himself what interests him most: history, culture, popular arts or cuisine.

A wonderful place to stay or stop in for dinner is Priscilla Madsen’s beautifully restored La Casa de los Sueños hotel. A 17th century mansion now special category boutique hotel with gourmet Mexican and international cuisine located in Pátzcuaro’s historic center, just off the main square.

On the next day, the trip continues on through apparently endless avocado plantations in the area of Uruapan, crossing the majestic Sierra Madre towards another paradise - to relax the senses and recall each moment of this journey under the warm breeze and the soft sound of the ocean waves. We are of course talking about Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo, four hours from Pátzcuaro on the new highway that connects Michoacán with Guerrero. The road passes over the dam of Infiernillo where one bridge is still under construction, which is the reason for a 38-kilometer detour along a different road. It is always recommendable to drive with caution especially on this stretch of the road which is narrower than the main highway.

Water sports activities like sailing, sports fishing, surfing, kayaking, scuba diving and snorkeling represent but a few options to enjoy Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo, but land-based sports also offer a wide array of options. Among others, there is golf on two 18-hole golf courses, hiking, jogging, bird watching, walks or bicycle rides on the extensive bicycle path leading through the Aztlán ecological park, rappel and other extreme sports.

For more information, contact the Conventions and Visitors Bureau of Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo at: (52)(755) 553-1270, e-mail: info@ixtapa-zihuatanejo.org, web: www.ixtapa-zihuatanejo.org. Other websites with interesting information about the beach destination promoted as being “Twice as Pleasing”:

www.zihua-ixtapa.com | www.surf-mexico.com | www.zihua.net |www.zihuatanejo.net |

This article was originally written by Carmen & Lee Kraft for the Mexican tourism trade magazine “Notiturismo”. It was translated and re-edited for “Another Day in Paradise” by Wibke Koehler